Six by Nico
Six by Nico, which opened its doors recently in the old Roc & Rye location at 60 Spring Gardens, serves a set tasting menu consisting of 6 courses that changes every 6 weeks. Its initial offering is Nico’s take on the great British “chippy”, and very good it was. It joins the Nico restaurants in other locations and is a welcome addition to Manchester.
The whole place has had a makeover and the old bar area is now given over to an enormous kitchen (visible through its own window from the street) and the much smaller bar is right at the back of the room. Gone are the blue Chesterfield banquettes and booths in favour of normal chairs and tables which does give more flexibility when seating different sized parties.
The menu comes in two variants, stand-alone and with wine pairings for each course.
Each course is Nico’s take on your local chip shop’s offerings. Manchester Egg is a pickled almost hard boiled egg in black pudding. Chips & Cheese is a potato croquette set on Parmesan mousse and curry oil. Scampi is actually monkfish cheeks. Steak Pie is a shin beef medallion etc. The complete menus and pricings are via the link below.
If you don’t go for the wine pairings, there is a good wine list with something to suit all tastes, some of which are available by the glass. There is also a good gin menu. If a course isn’t to your liking a vegetarian equivalent can be substituted, so you could even mix things up a bit if you wanted to go more than once every six weeks.
Excellent new offering.
Paul Schofield for Canal St Online.
Published: 18-Jul-2019 (5490)