In Germany, when humans eat, the verb is “essen”. When animals eat it’s “fressen”, and when the latter is applied to people its colloquial meaning is “to eat like a pig". At Fress, the contraction acknowledges good portions but also tilts a nod at freshness, as everything they serve is made on the premises. It’s good.
The test of anywhere that serves brunch is their burger offering. This came with a generous pot of French fries, a really fresh side salad (that had more than just limp lettuce and watery tomato in it), and a pickle. At 6 ounces it’s about the right size and was nicely cooked through without being cremated.
The second dish we ordered was the beef brisket hash. This was a great improvement on the ubiquitous corn beef hash you see elsewhere. Nice chunks of brisket came with mushrooms, new potatoes and diced pickle, and it was topped with two poached eggs – still soft inside too. Delicious.
To follow, we shared one of their cheesecakes, which came with a nice thick layer of chocolate topping. Just what was needed. A bottle of Pinot Grigio completed things and the bill was just shy of £50. Fress has been open since last June, but somehow we missed it until now. It’s a good addition to Oldham Street, and looks like it’s here to stay. Good.
Fress Cafe, Restaurant & Cocktail Bar Address: 62 Oldham St, Manchester M4 1LE Hours: Open · Closes 10PM Phone: 0161 236 0856 http://fressrestaurant.com/