When I married a Polish man, I also married Polish food – we’re a throuple. I previously had misguided assumptions that it might be heavy, beige and perhaps too bland for a British guy (one with Pakistani heritage at that).
However, I now crave Polish food. It’s a privilege to have discovered this undervalued Pandora’s Box of treats. It’s not just diverse, flavourful and fun but also colourful! I’m not an expert on Polish food (or any food) but I’m an expert on what makes me happy…
Described as “modern Polish cuisine made with love”, Platzki was founded originally almost a decade ago by couple Łukasz and Przemek. After some initial location changes, they finally found the perfect base on Deansgate pre-Pandemic. I have enjoyed visiting since the start but eager to see how the new menu is and under the FOH leadership of new GM Nikodem (Nik).
The welcome is always warm (the famous Polish hospitality) and the interior feels like a hug, especially on a cold March evening. It manages to combine modern, unfussy bistro, mixed with a feeling of home with elements of a lounge, a pantry and an outdoor garden (for less cold nights).
My husband and I started with a couple of cocktails and a few nibbles. Chleb ze Smalecem, which would translate literally to “bread with lard” is a must. Smalec is a traditional Polish snack somewhere between pâté, a terrine and lard – this version is generous on the meat and as deliciously satisfying as ever – try it without reluctance, trust me! This was perfect to sip alongside a Cherry Sour and an Herbal Garden but if the great range of cocktails didn’t call out to you, it would be perfect with a cold beer.
As we struggled to whittle down, we greedily went for the Tatar (duck breast for a nice change to the more usual beef), Kaszanka (black pudding croquettes) and of course the house Platzki (the classic potato pancake and namesake – this version with smoked salmon and sour cream). All beautifully curated on the dishes, seasoned perfectly with balanced textures i.e. the crispy pancake with the velvety topping and the cucumber, gherkin and shallot salad adding crunch and freshness to the black pudding.
We then did some stretches and readied ourselves for some bigger dishes. We shared the Karkowka (slow roasted pork neck) and Kaczka (confit duck leg) which were served respectively with hassleback potatoes and plum marmalade filled gnocchi (I can imagine the kitchen faff for the latter but as a recipient, eternally grateful for said faff). To add some freshness, we had the Buraczki (a beetroot and walnut coleslaw of sorts) and the Kapusta (a stewed, herbal cabbage-based salad). Both main dishes do absolute justice to their classic counterparts, but they inject some extra warm, earthy tones with flavours like green peppercorns, clove and rhubarb.
While we were at breaking point (the portions are generous but not overwhelming when hungry), we couldn’t deny ourselves a generous slice of Szarlotka (Polish apple cake) also known as Jabłecznik, which is less fun to say, with a finishing touch of a little dessert wine by Winnaca Silesian Solaris: a producer in Bagieniec, a village in the South West of Poland making great wines including grapes like Riesling, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and in this case, Solaris. Cakes are homemade on site and from past visits, Sernik, the traditional cheesecake, is highly recommended.
Starting mid-March, the gang will also be serving Sunday roasts, with a little Polish twist, so we can’t wait to come back soon for some Sunday pleasure (gluttony). Don’t forget 15% off with your Canal St Card, adding extra value to the experience.
In conclusion then, Platzki makes me happy. What hasn’t changed is the passion for flavour, re-inventing classics to appease the Poles that long for a taste of home and also bringing a new audience to this underappreciated cuisine. They keep evolving the food & drink menus to keep things interesting but never lose that sense of comfort, which for me is an absolute highlight about Polish fayre. What has been added, is another breath of fresh air with Nik and team, so that the experience is both wonderful service and excellent food & drink. “Dziękuję bardzo” and see you guys soon aka “do zobaczenia”!
Nosheel Marek-Rahi for Canal St Online.